I was born in the 1970s so the term “salad” hits in a particular note for me. If you’re of a similar vintage you’ll recognize the tune: iceberg lettuce, wedges of pale tomato, hard thick coins of carrot, maybe some raw sliced mushrooms if we were feeling fancy. It was probably served in wooden salad bowls with an assortment of bottled salad dressings with names like “Italian”, “French” and maybe even the slightly risqué “Blue Cheese”.
Salad wasn’t so much a course in the meal as an afterthought, a little penitence for meaty or cheesy casserole in the centre of the table. It served much the same point as boiled broccoli or defrosted beans: eat your greens – they are good for you. Roughage, as my grandmothers would call it.
But today it’s cool to be vegan or vegetarian, and all but the most committed carnivores realize that eating a pile of plants is among the keys to a long and healthy life.
There’s a big difference between doing something because we have to versus doing it because we enjoy it. And salad, believe it or not, can be something enjoyable, even decadent, without sacrificing its virtue.
I have mentioned before that some dishes seem to taste better at restaurants, and salads are definitely one of them. It is, in large part, a function of variety – restaurants can use a larger variety of ingredients and have the benefits of division of labour to create all the fun trimmings like candied nuts and complicated dressings.
But while variety is nice, the key to salad is in its construction, which is to say (yet again!) that’s it all about technique.
Rather than give you a blow-by-blow of a particular salad, I’m going to explain the elements and let you get creative.
Sound fun?
The right size and the right shape. You shouldn’t have to jam oversized leaves into your mouth or navigate whole cherry tomatoes. Hard leaves (cabbage, romaine, etc.) should be cut to bite size, and tender leaves torn into something manageable. Hard vegetables (carrot, beet, radish, etc.) can be sliced thinly on a mandoline or, better yet, grated. If you have to ask, the pieces are too big.
Think about texture. A variety of textures provides balance and interest in each bite. Crisp lettuce with soft tomato. Creamy avocado with refreshing cucumber. Crunchy nuts and tender sautéed mushrooms. Chewy dried fruit and brittle veggie chips. Including some cooked veggies (grilled, steamed, or roasted) in the mix opens up the options even more (and uses up leftovers!) A few different contrasts in your salad bowl ensures that your mouth won’t get bored.
Get Grains. There are plenty of grain-based salads, but even a handful of cooked grain adds texture, nutty flavour, and starchy satisfaction.. Leftover cooked rice is easy, but why not check out some of the more interesting options at your bulk bin store like farro, wild rice, barley, or buckwheat? Take the idea a little further and add some cooked rice noodles or a little bit of pasta (there’s a box in the pantry you’re trying to use up, amiright?)
Sweet and heat. A little bit of sweetness can take the bitter edge off vegetables like cabbage, broccoli, and other cruciferous things. A handful of in-season berries feels luxe, but even a few grapes can completely transform an ordinary bowl of leaves. A peppery radish or handful of arugula balances the sweetness with pungency. If you really like the heat a few slices of hot peppers will add fire to the occasional bite.
Protein power. A salad isn’t a meal if it’s just a heap of veggies. Adding some protein will ensure you’re not stalking the snack cupboard in an hour. Chicken, ham, or even a scoop of cooked beans works great. Eggs can be boiled, poached or fried, and can be added warm or cold. Canned tuna, salmon, or sardines are perfect (unless you have to share your lunchroom).
Dress for success. Your dressing needn’t be complicated, but it’s key to salad success. A classic vinaigrette is a classic for a reason, but don’t be afraid to play with the proportions to suit your tastes. A warm vinaigrette can take your salad in an all-new direction. Fat-free dressings are not your friend - you need fat to absorb all the great vitamins from your veggies and to keep the “hangry” at bay. Which leads me to……
Toss it right. If you’re not tossing your salad in a mixing bowl, you’re doing it wrong. Those pretty restaurant salads are nearly always made in large metal mixing bowls. Using a large bowl ensures that each leaf, each chunk, and each grain is evenly coated with dressing. Such even coating means you often end up using less dressing than you would if it were served on the side (you’re welcome!). So get out your biggest bowl and your tongs and start tossing.
A great salad can come together in just a few minutes. Here’s one I made yesterday, assembled in about three minutes. I chopped a tomato and lightly salted it to bring out the flavour and juiciness, tore up some mixed lettuce, chopped a bit of cucumber, and threw in some cooked peas and carrots, some quinoa, unremarkable steamed broccoli, and a bit of leftover turkey. A few pickled banana peppers for fun. Classic red wine vinaigrette (use less than you think you need and add more after tasting).
I tossed it with my hands to avoid dirtying tongs (Shhhh…..)
Added a scoop of hummus and it was done. Ate it right from the mixing bowl, because why not?
You needn’t leave great salads to the restaurant chefs. Be creative, be adventurous, and go win some friends with your amazing salads. Or just get a fork, hug the bowl to your chest, and enjoy.